Mystique R333
Full Member
Sorry been gone for a while, but came back and cleaned the crap posts out
Posts: 137
|
Post by Mystique R333 on Jan 13, 2009 15:43:11 GMT 10
I have found the following sets of specifications for the Holland 25, so far, and wonder what other specs other owners have for their yachts. PRINCIPAL DIMENSIONS (Set Number 1)- Length: 25' (7.62m)
- LWL: 20'3" (6.17m)
- Beam: 10' (3.04m)
- Draft: 5' (1.52m)
- Displacement: 3500lb (1590kg)
- Ballast: 1650lb (750kg)
- I.O.R: 18' (5.5m)
- Headroom aft: 5'9" (1.75m)
- Sail area: 357sq. ft (33.1m)
SAIL AREAS- Mainsail: 119sq. ft (11.05 m2)
- No. 1 Genoa: 238sq. ft (22.11 m2)
- No. 2 Genoa: 160sq. ft (14.86 m2)
- Spinnaker: 527sq. ft (48.95 m2)
PRINCIPAL DIMENSIONS (Set Number 2)- Length (LOA): 7.5 m / 25 Ft
- Length (WL): 6.3 m / 21 Ft
- Beam: 3 m 10 Ft
- Keel: Fin (Lead) Draft: 1.6 m (5’3’’)
- Hull Speed: 6.1 Kt
- Masthead Sail Area: 25 m² / 270Ft²
I know there is a deep and shallow draft keel (Mystique is deep and Dragon at RYCV is shallow) and even a number of swing up trailer-sailer versions. Anyone have some actual measurements from a weigh-in for their rating to compare with? SAIL AREAS I understand that there is considerable variation in both Main P and jib/genoa sizes with probably a higher profile ordered when a mast is replaced now IOR rating does not apply. What are sail dimensions that seem to work on masthead and fractional rigs? Sailmakers don't seem to have any definitive sizes, only dimensions of sets they have made to order with big Genoas. Most rigs sail without running backstays, some still use them - opinions please?
|
|
|
Post by mikebarr on Dec 2, 2009 17:03:21 GMT 10
Looking around at purchasing Yacht.
Checking out a few Holland 25, so interested to know, from owners, how they have stood the test of time!
mainly interested in any osmosis issues, bonding deck - hull etc
Any advise re issues to look out for would be appreciated. have noticed from this site, various ages, how do i find Id number? any plate or numbers set into hulls?
With the original masthead rig, what would be the mast height, above water line, (I have some bridges to consider and clear??)
Were most made as Keel stepped or are where there deck mounted yachts built?
Main point is what are major issues to be aware of when checking and to factor if there are common problems that have developed over the years.
cheers
|
|
Mystique R333
Full Member
Sorry been gone for a while, but came back and cleaned the crap posts out
Posts: 137
|
Post by Mystique R333 on Dec 4, 2009 18:09:43 GMT 10
From my experience as a recent purchaser who has done a lot of work to outside and inside renos, hull well built, but not numbering.
I had hull soda blasted back to original gelcoat - no osmosis, but tiny air bubble crater holes in gelcoat that needed filling.
Watch out for loose toerails and staunchions. Lots of hassles to remove and refix as there are nuts bedded in the bog between hull inner and outer skins. Hull and deck still well joined on mine - no leaks.
Most rigs I've seen are deck stepped (mine was keel stepped fractional). Beware of through hull penetrations being loose. Engine access in deck is a leak problem so will be water in motor bilge area from rain, not necessarily shaft leaks.
All the people I've had working on mine are surprised how solid they are built and how roomy below.
|
|
|
Post by mikebarr on Dec 16, 2009 20:34:10 GMT 10
Thanks for your reply Colin,
Through hull "looseness" are you talking about hull (inlets and outlets) or where mast go through deck in your keel stepped yacht?
If you mean the through hull water fittings, is this because of hull thinning at this point or the thru hull fitting/s deteriorating?
With the aging diesels in many of these yachts, are there outboard versions getting around and how successful have been the fitting of outboard bracket to transom and its ease?
Having an opening engine hatch in the thingypit floor, does this defeat/effect the integrity of the the self draining outlets in the thingypit, ie takes water into hull not dispose of it out off vessel?
cheers
|
|
Mystique R333
Full Member
Sorry been gone for a while, but came back and cleaned the crap posts out
Posts: 137
|
Post by Mystique R333 on Dec 17, 2009 10:13:43 GMT 10
Welcome Mike
When I talked about through hull "looseness" I mean the through hull under water fittings, I found that a couple, although still water tight, bolts had worked loose, so just needed a bit of sealant applied outside and nut tightened. Raw water feed for motor did need replacing through corrosion as did the hoses, but that is normal safety procedure.
Q. With the aging diesels in many of these yachts, are there outboard versions getting around and how successful have been the fitting of outboard bracket to transom and its ease? A. The rear transom in mine is not braced and is only flat fibreglass (mine has inboard). I would recommend a reinforcing plate of ply be glassed behind motor bracket mount area and a brace going forward to take the stress and weight. Quite a few H25s only ever had outboards and would probably already be suitably strengthened to take the bracket. Buy one of those and you don't have to pay for an old motor that you'd only discard and have to seal off penetrations.
Q. Having an opening engine hatch in the thingypit floor, does this defeat/effect the integrity of the the self draining outlets in the thingypit, ie takes water into hull not dispose of it out off vessel? A. That hatch gives great access to a motor below but is dificult too seal well and rain water does dribble into the motor compartment bilge (which is separate to rest of hull floor). A nuisance and mine will be taped over with flashing tape to seal it once the motor is fully sorted. If you remove the motor, then glass or Sikaflex it sealed. Note the "self draining outlets in the thingypit" still gets rid of most of the water as the Pushpit or "thingypit" slopes towards the back where the two 25mm drains are.
Hope this answers your question. Hopefully someone with an outboard can answer that question better.
Cheers, Colin
|
|
|
Post by ricochet on Jan 9, 2010 22:06:52 GMT 10
Hi there, I have had my Holland 25 for a bit over 2 years now and mine is a fractional rig that is deck stepped and had an old Vire 7 petrol inboard motor. I agree with comments that many of the motors are very old, unreliable and the access hatch in the thingypit does leak a lot of water. I found that this would not only leak into the engine bay, but would also seep under the floor, which was a real pain. I ended up sealing the access hatch with sikaflex and it no longer leaks. I also removed the old engine and replaced it with an outboard on a bracket off the back. As far as mounting it, it was reasonably simple. The fibreglass on the transom is thin and does flex when pressure is applied, however it is very strong. We braced the inside of the transom with a thick sheet of marine ply to add strength to carry the weight of the motor off the back. The only complicated bit is that due to the angled transom, you need to make up a stainless steel triangle mounting bracket to mount the engine to. I added a raising/lowering bracket to mount the motor to, so I could get the motor out of the water when under sail. I even ran a forward controls kit into the thingypit so I have an electric start motor with all controls in the thingypit. Hope this helps and best of luck in your search for a H25. Cheers.
|
|
|
Post by mikebarr on Jan 11, 2010 18:22:29 GMT 10
Thanks for your input Richochet re outboard and leaking thingypit floor.
re "thingypit", I plead not guilty, the spellchecker did it!
I do plead guilty to not checking what changes the spellchecker did when i'd used thingypit.
Lets see what it lets come up on forum with this post! Cheers
|
|
|
Post by mikebarr on Jan 11, 2010 18:27:46 GMT 10
It did it too me again, this time with no spellchecker! Obviously we cannot type or use the correct name of the place that is self draining and has a hatch to open and inspect the engine! The big brother is everywhere!
|
|
|
Post by sharsp on Feb 28, 2010 11:15:49 GMT 10
Mystique, My boat Omega is pretty much original, do you know what the measurement form waterline to mast top is? Got some bridges is my river and without ability to accurately measure at the moment was curious to know. Thanks
|
|
Mystique R333
Full Member
Sorry been gone for a while, but came back and cleaned the crap posts out
Posts: 137
|
Post by Mystique R333 on Mar 3, 2010 18:40:57 GMT 10
Sparsp, most have had new rigs and I have not been able to obtain any old rig design details. Hoist a new rope to the top of the mast, mark where it touches water, then measure the length of that rope and you should have a reasonably accurate height.
Sorry but your mast could be any height and your hull may float higher or lower depending on load.
|
|
|
Post by johnthedentist on Oct 10, 2012 1:05:02 GMT 10
I have just come across a trailer sailer version on a triple axle trailer. I am interested in finding out more about this yacht before I consider handing over my money to buy it. Does anyone in this forum have one. I would love to hear from them as I have always liked Ron Holland designs but as I live on a lake(3/4's the size of Sydney harbour) and would need to trailer it to the coast 100klms when not on the lake. I would like to know how people go with trailering a 10 foot wide boat. just a bit over the normal boat width. I would also like to know if anyone has some history on the trailer sailer design and some specification. Thanks
|
|
|
Post by justdive on Oct 19, 2012 2:10:18 GMT 10
Hi john We got our Holland 25 from Vic and put it on a trailer and drove it up to port Douglas qld there was lots of paper work to get it across 3 states and looking back it would been easier to truck it up. it is to wide and you require a lot of permit and a lots of conditions/restrictions !! I work in gladstone what is the boats name ?
|
|
ossie
New Member
Posts: 5
|
Post by ossie on Sept 18, 2019 11:39:37 GMT 10
We just bought a Holland 25 trailer sailer, I know I'm a bit late to the party but, here in NSW (haven't checked into other states) they have a special provision for trailer sailers. All I need for the over width(up to 3.5m) is a copy of the guideline in my glove box??? To show if pull up. No signage lights etc required. There are some road/night restrictions. Had this checked and rechecked NSW RMS Tecnical dept.
|
|
ossie
New Member
Posts: 5
|
Post by ossie on Sept 18, 2019 11:45:32 GMT 10
@ johnthedentist did you get any spec's of the trailer sailer design? I'm hunting some info on them.
@ justdive was yours a keeler? Are you still in Happyrock? We not long moved down from there.
|
|
|
Post by callmethebreeze on Oct 12, 2021 10:42:06 GMT 10
Looking for a j measurement for a spinnika pole
|
|