Keel Bolts

[kermitjames]

Has anyone replaced their keel bolts in thdeep keel version. Just wondering if this is necessary and how one would go about it?

[virage]

My boat survey satates that "The cast iron fin keel is in good condition and appears to be well fitted to the hull, no keel bolts were drawn or inspected." I don't think I will replace it....

[Mystique R333]

I had Mystique's bolts checked without dropping the keel when I had the lifting point engineered and installed. Opinion was they were fine and trouble could start even by dropping the keel and resealing, so just epoxied over soda blasted bottom. My keel is lead not cast iron though and is a deep keel version, not shallow draft.

I think it is a case of if there's no leaks, should be fine. Boat builder did retension keel bolts though.

[Mystique R333]

Going through Doug Sharpin's archives I found that the bolts are true 316 Stailess Steel (especially ordered 5/8" bolts) as 54 inch and 23 inch long bolts that are fully imbedded in the 3% Antimony strengthened lead keel. A keel was bent through 80 degrees in an accident without pulling bolts out of keel or hull, so was very strong when built.

By the way, thread is Whitworth 5/8" on the six bolts. See Aquarius photos for hull and keel joining.

All shallow and deep draft keels are Antimony strengthened lead. One cast iron, light weight, racing keel was built and of course there was also the trailable drop keel version that was not lead.

[sharsp]

My keel bolts are cleary visible in my cabin floor once the floating wooden floor boards were removed. There are 6 large, main bolts and a smaller one towards the stern end of the main bolts.

From what I can see they look to be in good nick.

Why do you want to replace yours?

[dougsharpin]

Hi Karma....From what I remember "Virage"was moored opposite MHYC and think it was Norm Cliffords boats that won all the races for 20 years - very sucessful, but it didn't have a cast iron keel but a standard lead, deep keel. Only cast one iron keel for a race boat for John Levey and it was fast but lighter weight made it very tender. I heard a new owner changed it for a lead one and the cast iron keel is in his backyard !!
regards ..........Doug

[dougsharpin]

Hi Kermit James...or is that James with the H25 "Kermit" from Townsville that won all the Qld races convincingly beating 40 footers ? It was a lovely 4 shades of green stripes taking off World 2 Ton IOR winner "Imp"
As to your keel bolts, as Colin says they are cast in the lead when pouring the moulten lead - the fore and aft is actually the same "U' bolt welded to two narrow "U"bolts or the side by side nuts you see. To inspect you would have to undo the nuts and lift hull 2" so it doesn't pull out, and check in place - take care, if it came right out it would be very dangerous !! We did it here in Nelson Bay and reseated it with sikaflex round the bolts and lots of epoxy putty
on top...."Markim" it was, and together with "Nearly Midnight" have very close racing on Lake macquarie these days (May 2011)

[virage]

Hi Doug,
Virage III used to be owned by Neville Clements at MHYC. I bought from him and it is located in Pitthingyer now. There are more than 20 shinny winner's plates still in the cabin.

[dougsharpin]

Further to the side deck mounted winches......one other thing we found good for the skipper going to windward is to straddle the winch like a saddle to hold him in a comfortable position in the MAJOR interest of keeping ALL weight to the centre of the boat (fore/aft) with crew on the rail close together and central which greatly enhances performance on all points of sailing - also the reason Ron Holland did not draw anchor well fwd or lazareet aft (so you couldn't put weight in the ends) - we even kept the anchor and battery midships under the "cooks seat"..........the Whitsunday charter H25 required the fwd and aft hatches without regard to performance (much heavier boats)

The regular method of fastening the engine hatch was simply two 1/4"bolts with wingnuts then a heavy bead of neutral cure silicone wiped in with a finger - masking tape each side. Access not req'd often but simply cut open with stanley knife and reseal.

[caps]

Whilst doing the annual bottom clean. I noticed some movement / flexing in the hull when I rocked the keel side to side. How can I check this structurally ?. Every thing looks OK from the floor opening.
Advice sought from those wiser than I.
Thanks in advance.